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Description
The high content of natural proteins in skin and hair allows for the widespread use of proteins in cosmetic products. Due to their poor solubility in water, most proteins are not suitable for use in cosmetics. To be incorporated into cosmetic formulations, proteins must undergo a hydrolysis process, which cleaves the protein into smaller peptide chains called hydrolysates or further into amino acid molecules. Hydrolysates can be modified to increase adhesiveness, similar to quaternized proteins, or condensed with fatty acids to change their surface activity. Further reaction of the condensate with an alkaline material produces a salt that can be used as a mild surfactant. Hydrolyzed proteins play an important role in maintaining the hydration and health of skin and hair.
Science
In the skin, hydrolyzed proteins are among the key nutrients called natural moisturizing factors (NMF). These compounds are responsible for maintaining skin moisture and elasticity, attracting and retaining water to keep the outer layer of the stratum corneum hydrated. Keratin Hydrolysate is produced through a combination of alkaline and enzymatic hydrolysis, which gives it exceptional moisturizing and protective properties.
Properties
Keratin Hydrolysate is an aqueous solution with an average molecular weight of approximately 2000 Daltons. Due to its molecular weight, hydrolyzed keratin does not penetrate the skin or hair, but rather deposits on the surface, forming a solid film. This combination of properties makes it an ideal ingredient for formulations where conditioning effects are desired. Hydrolyzed protein films on the hair directly contribute to increased shine and a better feel to the touch.
Since hydrolyzed proteins exist as colloids in solution, they can bind to anionic surfactants to form tightly bound protein-surfactant complexes. It is well known in the industry that the presence of these complexes in personal care formulations significantly reduces surfactant-induced irritation. In vivo studies show a clear dose-dependent reduction in erythema at different protein concentrations in surfactant solutions. Proteins are known for their ability to form films in solution, as well as when applied to keratin substrates. In surfactant systems, this film-forming property contributes to a longer-lasting and more stable foam.
Advantages
Adding Keratin Hydrolysate to cosmetic formulations can provide visible benefits such as reduced irritation, conditioning, film formation and longer lasting lather. It can improve the moisturizing and conditioning properties of a wide range of skin and hair care products and provide protective and hydrating benefits for healthy skin and hair.
