Sclerothix / Thickener and gelling agent

Description

INCI: Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Algin
Recommended concentration: up to above 2.5%

• Powdered with effective action at lower doses
• 100% Natural Origin (ISO 16128)
• COSMOS Approved
• Very safe and gentle on the skin
• Gluten-free
• Vegan
• Cold process
• pH 3-12

WHAT ARE THE PROBLEMS WITH GELLING WATER?

The main ingredient is most often carbomer, but it is not derived from renewable sources, but rather from petrochemicals – most companies want to move towards more natural and sustainable ingredients.

• The key to substituting carbomer is to achieve a smooth, silky texture with added suspension properties.
• Stickiness, lumpiness, and other unfavorable characteristics common with natural alternatives should be avoided.
• It is also useful to achieve transparency, as this makes the thickener very versatile.

This means that we have a CHALLENGE ahead of us!

Xanthan Gum

• Microbiological origin, vegan quality
• Safe thickener/suspending agent that does not leave a sticky feeling
• Compatible with many ingredients
• Creates a stable 3D network
• Transparent

Algin

• Obtained from wild-harvested seaweed
• Natural polymer alginic acid
• Contributes to a silky feeling on the skin
• Adds light thickening and structure to creams and gels

Sclerotium Gum

• Obtained by fermentation of sugar
• The best natural rubber for suspension available
• Transparent texture
• Extremely resistant to electrolytes, alcohol and other ingredients

How to gel water?

• Add Sclerothix® directly to the water phase (sprinkle on top of the water)
• Alternatively, moisten the powder in glycerin and then add to the water.
• Sclerothix® is dispersed in cold water or can be used at 75°C (viscosities may vary)
• Homogenization for several minutes is required to disperse and hydrate the powder completely.
• Air will be trapped in the gel, but will clear out in about 24 hours, or use a centrifuge or vacuum.
• Using heat retains less air.
• If you are working with surfactants; first make a gel, then add the surfactants slowly and mix gently to avoid foaming.

How to make an emulsion?

• Measure the oil and water phases separately, if butters are present, dissolve them in the oil phase. If all components are liquid, heating is not necessary.
• Emulsifiers are added to either the oil phase or the water phase, depending on the instructions for use. Disperse Sclerothix® in the oil phase to wet it.
• Viscosity can be further adjusted by using more Sclerothix®. Please note that Sclerothix® can be added at any stage.
• Add the water phase to the oil phase and mix well. If necessary, preheat, depending on the emulsifier.
• Cool and add heat-sensitive ingredients.
• Homogenize for a few minutes until an emulsion forms.

Combining with other ingredients:

• Glycols, hyaluronic acid and most active substances and extracts are compatible with Sclerothix® although some may affect transparency.
• Most emulsifiers and oils are compatible.
• Up to 2.5% is recommended for a smooth, non-sticky gel.
• The pH of the cream should be above 3 and below 12.
• Sclerothix® has anionic character and may be incompatible with cationic surfactants.