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Description
INCI: Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Algin
Recommended concentration: up to above 2.5%
- Powdered with effective action at lower doses
- 100% Natural Origin (ISO 16128)
- COSMOS Approved
- Very safe and gentle on the skin
- Gluten-free
- Vegan
- Cold process
- pH 3-12
WHAT ARE THE PROBLEMS WITH GELLING WATER?
The main ingredient is most often carbomer, but it is not derived from renewable sources, but rather from petrochemicals – most companies want to move towards more natural and sustainable ingredients.
- The key to substituting carbomer is to achieve a smooth, silky texture with added suspension properties.
- Stickiness, lumpiness, and other unfavorable characteristics common with natural alternatives should be avoided.
- It is also useful to achieve transparency, as this makes the thickener very versatile.
This means that we have a CHALLENGE ahead of us!
Xanthan Gum
- Microbiological origin, vegan quality
- Safe thickener/suspending agent that does not leave a sticky feeling
- Compatible with many ingredients
- Creates a stable 3D network
- Transparent
Algin
- Obtained from wild-harvested seaweed
- Natural polymer alginic acid
- Contributes to a silky feeling on the skin
- Adds light thickening and structure to creams and gels
Sclerotium Gum
- Obtained by fermentation of sugar
- The best natural rubber for suspension available
- Transparent texture
- Extremely resistant to electrolytes, alcohol and other ingredients
How to gel water?
- Add Sclerothix® directly to the water phase (sprinkle on top of the water)
- Alternatively, moisten the powder in glycerin and then add to the water.
- Sclerothix® is dispersed in cold water or can be used at 75°C (viscosities may vary)
- Homogenization for several minutes is required to disperse and hydrate the powder completely.
- Air will be trapped in the gel, but will clear out in about 24 hours, or use a centrifuge or vacuum.
- Using heat retains less air.
- If you are working with surfactants; first make a gel, then add the surfactants slowly and mix gently to avoid foaming.
How to make an emulsion?
- Measure the oil and water phases separately, if butters are present, dissolve them in the oil phase. If all components are liquid, heating is not necessary.
- Emulsifiers are added to either the oil phase or the water phase, depending on the instructions for use. Disperse Sclerothix® in the oil phase to wet it.
- Viscosity can be further adjusted by using more Sclerothix®. Please note that Sclerothix® can be added at any stage.
- Add the water phase to the oil phase and mix well. If necessary, preheat, depending on the emulsifier.
- Cool and add heat-sensitive ingredients.
- Homogenize for a few minutes until an emulsion forms.
Combining with other ingredients:
- Glycols, hyaluronic acid and most active substances and extracts are compatible with Sclerothix® although some may affect transparency.
- Most emulsifiers and oils are compatible.
- Up to 2.5% is recommended for a smooth, non-sticky gel.
- The pH of the cream should be above 3 and below 12.
- Sclerothix® has anionic character and may be incompatible with cationic surfactants.
