Ascorbyl Palmitate
Stable vitamin C for antioxidant protection of skin and cosmetic formulations
INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate
Recommended concentration: 0.1–1%
Raw material description
Ascorbyl palmitate is a stable, lipophilic form of vitamin C, known as ascorbyl palmitate, which is formed by the esterification of ascorbic and palmitic acids. Unlike classic ascorbic acid, which is water-soluble, ascorbyl palmitate shows an affinity for lipids, which makes it particularly interesting for cosmetic formulations rich in vegetable oils and other fatty ingredients. Its uniqueness lies in its dual antioxidant function ; because it can be used as an active ingredient in skin care, but also as a functional antioxidant that contributes to the protection of the oil phase of the cosmetic product from oxidation processes.
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Description
Oxidation of vegetable oils is one of the important challenges in the development of cosmetic formulations, especially when oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids are used, so this form of vitamin C helps to slow down the oxidative changes of lipid components and contributes to preserving the quality and stability of the formulation. Its synergy with tocopherols (vitamin E) is particularly interesting. The combination of these antioxidants can provide more effective protection of the lipid system than their individual application. Thanks to its lipophilic structure, it is a valuable ingredient for the development of nourishing creams, emulsions, balms, oil serums and other cosmetic products in which antioxidant skin care is combined with increased oxidative stability of the formulation.
Operation and benefits
Antioxidant skin protection
Ascorbyl palmitate belongs to vitamin C derivatives with antioxidant properties. It helps neutralize free radicals and is interesting for the development of cosmetic products aimed at protecting the skin from oxidative stress and caring for skin with signs of premature aging.
Protection of vegetable oils from oxidation
One of the most important functions of this raw material is the protection of the lipid components of the cosmetic formulation. It helps to slow down the oxidation processes that can lead to changes in the smell, color and quality of the oil.
Synergistic effect with vitamin E
In combination with tocopherols, ascorbyl palmitate contributes to the effectiveness of the antioxidant system. This combination is particularly useful in formulations containing vegetable oils sensitive to oxidation.
Skin care with signs of aging
As a lipophilic vitamin derivative, it can be part of anti-aging formulations aimed at preserving the well-groomed, healthy and youthful appearance of the skin.
Application in cosmetic products
- Antioxidant and anti-aging face creams
- Nourishing emulsions rich in vegetable oils
- Oil serums for facial care
- Lip balms and body care
- Butters and intensive lipid formulations
- Night creams and regenerative treatments
- Products for dry and mature skin care
- Cosmetic formulations containing oxidation-sensitive vegetable oils
Recommended concentrations
| Purpose | Concentration |
| Antioxidant to protect the formulation | 0.1–0.2% |
| Active ingredient for skin care | 0.1–1.0% |
Formulation characteristics
- Although ascorbyl palmitate has an affinity for the oil phase, its complete dissolution in pure vegetable oils can be challenging. According to the manufacturer’s recommendation, when making emulsions, it is added to the oil phase, which is heated to approximately 80 °C, after which homogenization is carried out. The raw material can remain in a solid, dispersed form, but is successfully incorporated into the emulsion system by homogenization. For formulations based on pure oils, it is necessary to specifically check the possibility of dispersing and the stability of the product, since a completely clear solution cannot be expected.
