EMU 375 / UV emulsifier

Description

What makes the EMU 375 unique?

• Fast emulsifier
  • Liquid form allows for quick and easy application
  • Fast production process, compatible with cold processes
  • Fast absorption on the skin
• Light emulsifier
  • Creates light and airy textures
  • Suitable for various formulations: from light sprays to rich creams
  • Leaves a pleasant, nourishing finish
• Natural emulsifier
  • Pure anionic U/W emulsifier
  • 100% natural origin (ISO 16128)
  • It enables sustainable production processes with energy and resource savings

Why is EMU 375 crucial for formulators?

Technical capabilities

• Can be used as a main or auxiliary emulsifier
• Emulsifies up to 35% of the oil phase, regardless of the polarity of the oil

Flexible production process

• Suitable for cold, hot and combined processes
• Can be added before, during or after emulsification

Various textures

• Liquid formulations – sprays and serums
• Gel textures – refreshing lotions
• Creamy formulations – rich creams and butters
• Anhydrous formats – oils, solid products

How is it produced?

EMU 375 is obtained by esterification of natural ingredients:

• Sunflower oil
• Fermented glucose from sugar beet/cane
• Fermented corn
• Rapeseed oil

Action in formulations

Forms multilamellar vesicles

• High content of unsaturated fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acid) essential for skin health
• It improves the penetration of active ingredients and accelerates absorption

Viscosity regulation

• It does not create significant viscosity on its own, but allows for different textures
• In combination with appropriate gelling agents, it can create stable emulsions with varying degrees of density.

Emulsifying power

EMU 375 can emulsify 5 – 20% oil phase in cold and hot processes. Above 20% oil phase, it is recommended to use 3 – 4% EMU 375 with the addition of 1 – 1.5% fatty alcohol (tested up to 35% oil phase) (Lanette 16)

Compatibility and stability

• Preservatives – no known incompatibilities, but sensitive to organic acids
• With UV filters – compatible with soluble and dispersible UV filters
• With pigments – compatible with titanium dioxide (TiO₂), zinc oxide (ZnO) and iron oxides
• With surfactants – compatibility with anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants is expected
• With silicone – compatible, tested up to 20%
• With alcohol – compatible up to 5%

Optimal pH stability range: 4.5 – 10.0

Sensory profile

• When applying:
  • Light feeling when applied
  • Easy to spread
  • Fast absorption
  • No soaping effect
• After application:
  • Smooth and soft skin
  • Thin, comfortable protective barrier
  • Feeling of freshness and hydration

Simple production process

Cold process (3 steps):

• Preparation and mixing of phases
• Adding water to oil (or vice versa) and homogenization
• pH adjustment – ​​finished emulsion!

Warm process (4 steps):

• Heating phases to 70 – 80°C
• Adding the water phase to the oil and homogenization
• Cooling with stirring
• pH adjustment – ​​finished emulsion!