Physalis angulata

Description

Mechanism of action

One of the greatest peculiarities of the Physavie® ingredient is its “corticoid-like” action . This means that it shows a cosmetic effect similar to hydrocortisone in the regulation of skin inflammatory processes, but without the side effects characteristic of corticosteroids, such as skin atrophy, immunosuppression or reduced cell renewal.

Protection against thermal skin aging

In recent years, there has been increasing evidence that UV radiation is not the only cause of photoaging. More than half of the solar energy reaching the skin is infrared radiation, while almost 40% is visible light. These two spectra cause an increase in skin temperature, increased production of free radicals (ROS), activation of the NF-κB and AP-1 signaling pathways, and increased expression of metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen.

Physavie® works precisely on this mechanism:

• reduces oxidative stress
• regulates the NF-κB signaling pathway
• increases the skin’s antioxidant defenses
• increases the activity of SOD and catalase enzymes
• reduces the production of MMP enzymes
• increases the synthesis of procollagen and collagen I
• increases glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis.

Collagen and skin barrier restoration

In addition to regulating inflammation, Physavie® stimulates the expression of genes responsible for protecting collagen from thermal degradation.

The result is:

• better preservation of the dermal structure
• slower collagen breakdown
• less wrinkles
• greater skin elasticity.

Benefits for formulators

Physavie® enables the development of products that simultaneously:

• soothes sensitive and reactive skin
• protect against thermal and photo-aging
• reduce chronic microinflammation
• strengthen the skin barrier
• stimulate collagen synthesis
• improves skin’s resistance to external stressors
• protect the skin during exposure to the sun and blue light.

Recommended use

Physavie® is particularly suitable for formulations intended for:

• sensitive and reactive skin
• atopic skin
• skin prone to redness
• products after dermatological treatments
• anti-aging serums
• day creams
• SPF products
• after sun products
• eye care formulations
• products for protection against digital aging (blue light)
• products for people exposed to heat (chefs, hairdressers, industrial occupations).

Marketing Claims

• Protects skin from thermal aging.
• Helps reduce chronic skin micro-inflammation.
• Strengthens the skin’s natural resistance to external stressors.
• It stimulates collagen renewal and preserves skin elasticity.
• Protects skin from damage caused by infrared, visible and blue light.
• Soothes sensitive and reactive skin.
• Helps restore the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss.
• It contributes to preserving the youthful appearance of the skin.

Mirela believes: “In my opinion, the greatest value of Physavia® is not only its “corticoid-like” effect, but the fact that it is one of the rare cosmetic active ingredients that specifically addresses infrared radiation and thermal skin aging . This makes it an extremely interesting addition to modern SPF formulations, urban skin protection products, and lines for sensitive and reactive skin, where classic antioxidants alone are often not enough.”